These are the best zoom lenses for astrophotography when you want tight star points, disciplined coma/sagittal astigmatism, even illumination, and coatings that hold contrast under light pollution—whether you’re shooting Milky Way landscapes, blue-hour-to-night transitions, tracked mosaics, or compressed constellations—and here’s what to look for as you buy: prioritize fast, clean corners at working apertures (ƒ2–ƒ2.8 for FF/APS-C; ƒ1.7–ƒ2.8 for MFT), low sagittal flare on bright stars, gentle field curvature, repeatable manual focus with a long smooth throw (or a reliable infinity hard stop), minimal focus breathing if you film, and a practical filter plan (front 77/82mm threads or rear gels/holders for bulbous fronts); for trackers, favor zooms with robust collars or compact weight for easy balance, and pick focal ranges that stitch well without warped geometry. Full-frame astro zoom heroes: Nikon Z 14–24mm ƒ2.8 S (superb corner discipline, rear-gel holder), Sony FE 12–24mm ƒ2.8 GM (ultra-wide speed with impressive coma control), Sony FE 16–35mm ƒ2.8 GM II (lighter, crisp stars stopped 1/3–2/3), Canon RF 15–35mm ƒ2.8L IS (clean, stabilized framing for foreground blends), Sigma 14–24mm ƒ2.8 DG DN Art (L/E-mount value with strong corners and rear-gel slot), Tamron 17–28mm ƒ2.8 Di III (lightweight, threaded, great travel pick), Panasonic/LUMIX S Pro 16–35mm ƒ4 (slower but very tidy corners for long exposures), and wide-to-normal companions like Nikon Z 17–28mm ƒ2.8 or Sony/Tamron/Sigma 24–70mm ƒ2.8 for stitched panoramas at 24–35mm; for tele sky/constellation fields on trackers, 70–200mm ƒ2.8 class zooms (Sony FE GM II, Canon RF L, Nikon Z S, Sigma DN) render clusters/nebulae with pleasing compression—use at ~85–135mm for easy guiding. APS-C standouts: Tokina 11–20mm ƒ2.8 (Sony/Fuji/Nikon variants—fast, sharp), Sigma 18–35mm ƒ1.8 DC Art (legendary “prime-zoom” for starry panoramas at 18–24mm), Sigma 10–18mm ƒ2.8 DC DN (tiny, bright ultrawide), Sony E 10–20mm PZ ƒ4 (slower but rectilinear and great for long exposures), Sony/Tamron 17–70mm ƒ2.8s (use 17–24mm for stitched nightscapes), and Fujifilm XF 10–24mm ƒ4 OIS WR (clean geometry for long, low-ISO tripod work). Micro Four Thirds picks: Panasonic Leica 10–25mm ƒ1.7 and 25–50mm ƒ1.7 (unique constant-fast pair with prime-like rendering for nightscapes and tracked tele fields), Olympus/OM SYSTEM 7–14mm ƒ2.8 Pro (classic ultrawide astro tool), OM 8–25mm ƒ4 Pro (slower but crisp edges and flexible framing), Panasonic 8–18mm ƒ2.8–4 (filter-friendly 67mm front). Practical buyer tips: the widest end isn’t always the best corner behavior—many lenses hit their sweet spot 1/3–1 stop down; bulbous-front ultrawides need rear gels or square holders—plan for this before a trip; if you stitch, choose zooms with even illumination and low wave distortion and learn the entrance pupil to avoid parallax; for tracked work past ~85mm, prioritize weight/balance and consider a lens foot or rail; standardize 77/82mm where possible for NDs during twilight blends and for day scouting; if you mix stills/video, favor zooms with low breathing and linear MF and enable in-body breathing compensation. Night-field technique that keeps stars tight: use the NPF rule (more accurate than the 500-rule) to set shutter time by focal length and pixel pitch, shoot RAW, disable IBIS/IS on a locked tripod, and focus via magnified live view on a bright star—rock through and tape the ring; start with a high-ISO test frame to compose, then drop ISO and expose to the right without clipping highlights in lit foregrounds; run a dew heater or deep hood to prevent fogging, stop 1/3–1 stop down for cleaner corners, and bracket a low-ISO foreground at dusk/blue hour for noise-free blends; for deep-sky on teles, stack multiple guided frames and add calibration frames (darks/flats/bias) in your workflow; manage color under light pollution with a consistent WB (~3800–4200K) and gentle dehaze, and watch wind—raise ISO to maintain shutter speed and fire short bursts to land a tack frame; for video, lock a 180° shutter with quality VND for day-to-night transitions, set slow AF transitions, and keep moves minimal to avoid star wobble. Whether you’re framing a lone tree beneath the galactic core, building multi-row panoramas over desert mesas, or tracking constellations with a tele zoom, the best zoom lenses for astrophotography combine fast apertures, coma-taming optics, and reliable manual focus—so your night skies stay bright, sharp, and beautifully star-strewn.