These are the best Sony lenses for cityscape photography when you want straight lines, crisp corners, low flare, and rich micro-contrast for skylines, rooftops, bridges, and blue-hour vistas—and here’s what to look for as you buy: prioritize ultra-wide to short-tele coverage with low native distortion, excellent corner sharpness at landscape apertures (ƒ5.6–ƒ11), coatings that fight ghosting around streetlights, precise manual-focus feel for tripod work, and consistent front diameters so one high-quality CPL/ND fits your kit (use CPL gently to avoid blotchy skies); lighter lenses help on long walks and windy rooftops, weather sealing is a plus, and if you film, look for minimal breathing and quiet linear AF. Full-frame prime heroes: FE 14mm ƒ1.8 GM (disciplined UWA for dramatic perspectives and night cityscapes), FE 20mm ƒ1.8 G (light, threaded, sharp edge-to-edge stopped down), FE 24mm ƒ1.4 GM (iconic street vistas with gorgeous micro-contrast), FE 35mm ƒ1.4 GM (contextual urban frames with dimensional pop), and FE 50mm ƒ1.4 GM (compressed layers and reflections); for graphic compression from distance, FE 85mm ƒ1.4 GM or FE 135mm ƒ1.8 GM render stacked high-rises beautifully. Ultra-wide and standard zoom workhorses: FE 12–24mm ƒ2.8 GM (flagship breadth with strong corners and flare control), FE 12–24mm ƒ4 G (lighter value), FE 16–35mm ƒ2.8 GM II (razor sharp, agile), and FE PZ 16–35mm ƒ4 G (power-zoom precision, minimal breathing for video walkthroughs); mid-range coverage: FE 24–70mm ƒ2.8 GM II (optically stellar, great close-focus for architectural details) and FE 24–105mm ƒ4 G (do-it-all walkabout with reliable OSS). Tele/reach for skyline compression and bridges: FE 70–200mm ƒ2.8 GM OSS II (elite AF/OSS) or FE 70–200mm ƒ4 Macro G II (lighter, sharp), plus FE 70–300mm ƒ4.5–5.6 G OSS or FE 100–400mm ƒ4.5–5.6 GM OSS when distance demands more reach. Perspective-control options: Laowa shift primes on E-mount (e.g., 15mm/20mm Shift “Zero-D” types) keep verticals honest; for legacy tilt/shift, adapt Canon TS-E with a smart adapter and use a sturdy tripod. APS-C shooters get standout city kits with E PZ 10–20mm ƒ4 G (tiny, rectilinear feel, power zoom), E 11mm ƒ1.8 (bright UWA), E 15mm ƒ1.4 G (crisp “normal-wide”), E 10–18mm ƒ4 OSS (classic value), E 16–55mm ƒ2.8 G (pro mid-range), and E 70–350mm ƒ4.5–6.3 G OSS for compressed skyline layers. Practical buyer tips: build a two-lens spine (12–24/2.8 + 24–70/2.8 or PZ 16–35/4 + 24–105/4) and add a favorite prime (20/1.8 or 24/1.4) for low-light alleys; standardize to one top-tier CPL and a solid 6–10 stop ND for long-exposure water/cloud streaks; test for mustache distortion and field curvature before committing; if you deliver a lot of video, favor the PZ 16–35/4 G for smooth remote framing and lenses that cooperate with breathing compensation. Cityscape shooting tips: time sessions for golden/blue hour to balance sky and windows, level the camera to keep verticals true (or leave margin for post correction), work at ƒ5.6–ƒ8 for maximum plane sharpness (push to ƒ11 for deep scenes), use a tripod with 2-sec timer/remote and disable IBIS/OSS on sticks, bracket exposures and blend to hold signage and window glow, use ND for 10–60s water/traffic trails, shield the lens from stray lights with your hand/hood to prevent ghosts, and for starbursts place lights near edges and stop modestly; stitch multi-row panoramas for ultra-high-res murals, mind wind on rooftops, and carry a microfiber for salt/mist. Whether you’re framing neon canyons, glass-and-steel skylines, historic districts, or sweeping harbor views, the best Sony lenses for cityscape photography combine rectilinear discipline, corner-to-corner acuity, and flare control—so your lines stay straight, your lights glow clean, and your city looks epic.