These are the best fisheye lenses for macro photography when you want dramatic close-focus wide-angle (CFWA) looks—tiny subjects huge in the foreground with their habitat wrapped around them—plus strong flare control, inch-level minimum focus, and rugged builds for studio tabletop, field bugs/flowers, and creative product—and here’s what to look for as you buy: prioritize diagonal fisheyes (easier partial de-fish, cleaner edges) with very close MFDs, fast or near-hyperfocal focus you can tape, coatings that handle point lights and speculars, and light barrels that won’t spook subjects; plan on lighting that fits within inches (mini softboxes, snoots, macro LEDs) and consider extension tubes or achromatic diopters (+3/+5/+10) to push magnification—front screw-ins rarely fit, so use rear/clip-in options where possible. Full-frame heroes: Canon EF 8–15mm ƒ4L Fisheye USM and Nikon AF-S 8–15mm ƒ3.5–4.5E (benchmark circular→diagonal zooms—set a custom stop ~14–15 mm for diagonal coverage; add short extension/diopter for bigger subjects and de-fish lightly), Samyang/Rokinon 12mm ƒ2.8 diagonal fisheye (fast, featherweight, budget-friendly—excellent for dusk CFWA), and Sigma 15mm ƒ2.8 EX diagonal (compact classic with tidy corners at ƒ5.6–ƒ8). APS-C standouts: Tokina AT-X 10–17mm ƒ3.5–4.5 DX and Pentax DA 10–17mm ƒ3.5–4.5 (close-focus champs—perfect for mushrooms, flowers, and insects that let you get inches away; add a slim diopter to nudge scale), with Canon/Nikon 8–15s acting as diagonal fisheyes across most of their range on crop if you already own one. Micro Four Thirds winners for ultralight CFWA: Olympus M.Zuiko 8mm ƒ1.8 PRO (fast, weather-sealed, superb into-the-sun behavior and tiny working distances) and Panasonic Lumix G 8mm ƒ3.5 (tiny, sharp, cost-effective); specialty circulars like Laowa 4mm ƒ2.8 (MFT) focus absurdly close for playful all-sky “macro-environment” frames. Practical buyer tips: for maximum flexibility on FF, grab an 8–15 and store two zoom stops—(a) circular for graphic context and (b) diagonal “no-vignette” for most CFWA; for speed/price, the Samyang 12/2.8 is a low-light value; on crop, the Tokina 10–17 is size-to-coverage gold; use rigid EF→RF/E/Z adapters with zero play, keep a slim rail for fore–aft micro-adjustments, and pack a quality +5/+10 achromatic diopter to push magnification without wrecking edge quality. CFWA/macro shooting tips: get very close (1–6 in) and place a bold foreground subject with background 2–6 m behind for depth; start ƒ5.6–ƒ8 for edge discipline (stop to ƒ9–ƒ11 on high-res bodies), use 1/200–1/1000 s for hand-held field work and let ISO float, or tripod/stack in still air; light from the side with a snooted flash or mini LED for texture, use black/white flags to sculpt reflections, and cross-polarize by gelling lights (linear) and rotating a matte-box polar if your setup allows (avoid front CPLs on fisheyes); pre-focus near hyperfocal or on the subject, tape the ring, and rock the camera for micro-focus; for product/tabletop, kill IBIS on sticks, run T/ƒ5.6–ƒ11, stack 5–30 frames if needed, and de-fish just enough to relax curvature while keeping energy; for video, lock a 180° shutter with internal/clip-in ND, move slowly—tiny wobbles read huge—and set a fixed zoom stop before the take; whether you’re framing dew-lit mushrooms under a forest canopy, beetles with their whole habitat story, sweeping florals on a wedding table, or playful product hero shots, the best fisheye macro choices—8–15 zooms on full-frame, Tokina/Pentax 10–17 on APS-C, and Olympus/Panasonic 8 mm (plus close-focus circular fun on MFT)—deliver inches-close drama, manageable flare, and a projection you can shape in post so your subjects feel larger-than-life yet grounded in their world.