These are the best Tokina fisheye lenses when you want dramatic 180° perspective, close-focus impact, reliable sharpness stopped down, and creative flare control for skate, surf, underwater CFWA, architecture drama, and concert pits—and here’s what to look for as you buy: decide between diagonal fisheye (fills the frame with ~180° on the diagonal) and circular fisheye (full circle on full-frame), check your sensor coverage (APS-C vs full-frame) and mount/adapter path, favor lenses with short minimum focus for in-your-face compositions, well-controlled CA so speculars stay clean, and compact barrels that play nicely behind dome ports or on gimbals; skip CPLs (they blotch skies and cost light), carry a hood to tame veiling flare, and if you plan to “de-fish,” pick options with good corner acuity at ƒ5.6–ƒ8. APS-C/DSLR & mirrorless diagonal fisheye workhorse: AT-X 10–17mm ƒ3.5–4.5 (and updated atx-i CF version)—the genre classic for action and underwater (razor-short MFD, removable hood on “NH” versions for wider coverage/adaptation; covers FX/FF from ~15–17 mm with only mild vignette); it’s the most versatile Tokina fisheye zoom for travel, sports, and reef CFWA. Mirrorless APS-C prime: Tokina SZ 8mm ƒ2.8 Fisheye MF (Sony E / Fuji X / MFT): compact, bright for night/indoor creative, smooth manual focus for video pulls, and tidy coma stopped a notch—great gimbal/compact rigs and dome-port pairings. Full-frame circular option: Tokina SZ 10mm ƒ2.8 Fisheye (Sony E / Nikon Z): true circular on FF for logo-in-frame looks, planet shots, domed interiors, and stylized transitions (use a slim ND for 180°-shutter video, avoid front filters otherwise). Legacy full-frame diagonal classic (adapted): Tokina 17mm ƒ3.5 AT-X Fisheye (Canon/Nikon): robust build, clean mid-aperture edges for interiors and night city drama—adapts well to modern bodies (EF-to-RF/EF-to-E, F-to-Z). Underwater note: the 10–17 is a staple behind 100–180 mm domes for crisp corners and easy CFWA; use mini-domes for ultra-close subject emphasis, larger domes for blue-water scenics. Practical buyer tips: build a two-lens fisheye kit by pairing the 10–17 (or SZ 8/2.8 on APS-C) for diagonal looks with the SZ 10/2.8 for circular shots on FF; if you’re adapting DSLR glass, choose solid EF/F adapters with no play and a positive lock; test flare at night lights and sunballs, and check corner behavior at your typical stop (most fisheyes like ƒ5.6–ƒ8 for discipline). Fisheye shooting tips: get close (inches) for scale, keep horizons centered for neutral geometry or deliberately tilt for dynamic bend, stop to ƒ5.6–ƒ8 for edge crispness, watch your feet/rig in frame, and avoid CPLs; for video, hold a 180° shutter with a quality VND, shade the front element to prevent veiling, and keep moves slow—tiny wobbles read big at 180°; for underwater, place the subject inches from the dome and angle strobes out to kill backscatter, tape focus or use MF with peaking, and stop down for clean corners; whether you’re carving bowls at sunset, shooting cathedral ceilings, crafting planet panoramas, or building immersive reef sets, the best Tokina fisheye choices combine extreme field of view, close-focus drama, and practical handling—so your frames feel bold, clean, and unmistakably fisheye.