These are the best Sony lenses for landscape photography when you want rectilinear lines, crisp corners, low flare, and rich micro-contrast for mountains, coasts, forests, and deserts—and here’s what to look for as you buy: prioritize ultra-wide to short-tele coverage with low native distortion and strong corner acuity at ƒ5.6–ƒ11, coatings that suppress veiling/ghosting around sunstars, even field curvature, and precise manual-focus feel for tripod work; prefer lighter builds for big hikes, weather sealing for spray and dust, and consistent front diameters so one high-quality CPL (use gently to avoid blotchy skies) and a set of NDs/grads fit your kit; if you film, pick lenses with minimal breathing and quiet linear AF. Full-frame prime heroes: FE 14mm ƒ1.8 GM (disciplined UWA with excellent corners for nightscapes), FE 20mm ƒ1.8 G (light, threaded, sharp edge-to-edge stopped down), FE 24mm ƒ1.4 GM (iconic vistas with gorgeous micro-contrast), FE 35mm ƒ1.4 GM (contextual details and intimate landscapes with dimensional pop), and FE 50mm ƒ1.4 GM (compressed layers and tele-stitched panoramas); specialty value picks: FE 40mm ƒ2.5 G and FE 24mm ƒ2.8 G for tiny travel kits. Ultra-wide and standard zoom workhorses: FE 12–24mm ƒ2.8 GM (flagship breadth with strong corners and flare control), FE 12–24mm ƒ4 G (lighter value), FE 16–35mm ƒ2.8 GM II (razor sharp, agile), and FE PZ 16–35mm ƒ4 G (power-zoom precision and minimal breathing for video); mid-range coverage: FE 24–70mm ƒ2.8 GM II (optically stellar, close-focus for flowers and textures) and FE 24–105mm ƒ4 G (do-it-all hike lens with reliable OSS); for compression across valleys and ridge lines, FE 70–200mm ƒ2.8 GM OSS II (elite AF/OSS, beautiful rendering), FE 70–200mm ƒ4 Macro G II (lighter with excellent close-focus), and FE 100–400mm ƒ4.5–5.6 GM OSS for distant peaks and abstract layers. Specialty perspective-control options: Laowa shift primes on E-mount (e.g., 15/20mm Shift “Zero-D” types) keep trees and cliffs honest in stitched panos; for legacy tilt/shift, adapt Canon TS-E with a sturdy tripod and nodal slide. APS-C shooters get standout landscape kits with E PZ 10–20mm ƒ4 G (tiny, rectilinear feel, power zoom), E 11mm ƒ1.8 (bright UWA for astro + dawn), E 15mm ƒ1.4 G (crisp “normal-wide”), E 10–18mm ƒ4 OSS (classic value), E 16–55mm ƒ2.8 G (pro mid-range), and E 70–350mm ƒ4.5–6.3 G OSS for distant layers. Practical buyer tips: build a two-lens spine (12–24/2.8 + 24–70/2.8 or PZ 16–35/4 + 24–105/4) and add a favorite prime (20/1.8 or 24/1.4) for blue hour and astro; standardize to one top-tier CPL and solid NDs (3–6–10 stop) plus a soft grad for horizons; test your lens for mustache distortion and field curvature before committing; carry a compact macro/close-focusing option (24–70/2.8 GM II or 70–200/4 Macro G II) for flora and textures; lighter glass means longer miles and better stability in wind. Landscape shooting tips: time sessions for golden/blue hour to balance sky and land, level the camera to keep horizons true (or leave margin for post), work at ƒ5.6–ƒ8 for maximum plane sharpness (push to ƒ11 for deep scenes; beware diffraction beyond), use a tripod with 2-sec timer/remote and disable IBIS/OSS on sticks, bracket exposures and blend to hold cloud highlights and shadowed foregrounds, use ND for water/cloud motion (10–60s) and a CPL sparingly for glare control on foliage/rocks, shield the lens from stray light with your hand/hood to prevent ghosts, and for starbursts place the sun near an edge and stop modestly; stitch multi-row panoramas for ultra-high-res murals, mind wind on ridges, and keep a microfiber for sea spray. Whether you’re framing alpine glow, tidal textures, towering forests, or desert monoliths, the best Sony lenses for landscape photography combine rectilinear discipline, corner-to-corner acuity, and flare control—so your lines stay straight, your light stays clean, and your scenes feel grand and true.