These are the best fisheye lenses for night photography when you want full-sky coverage for Milky Way domes, aurora curtains, meteor showers, and neon-lit city drama—with clean point stars (for a fisheye), disciplined coma, strong flare control around the moon and streetlights, and tough coatings that play well with dew heaters—and here’s what to look for as you buy: favor faster fisheyes (ƒ1.8–ƒ3.5) with reliable manual focus and minimal sagittal smear near the edges, circular fisheyes for true all-sky meteor/aurora plates, diagonal fisheyes for edge-to-edge frames you can partially de-fish, close-focus behavior for foreground scale, and lightweight barrels that won’t fight trackers or timelapse sliders; most fisheyes can’t take front filters, so plan heater bands and keep glass immaculate. Full-frame heroes: Canon EF 8–15mm ƒ4L Fisheye USM and Nikon AF-S 8–15mm ƒ3.5–4.5E (benchmark circular→diagonal zooms—use ~8 mm for all-sky, ~15 mm for diagonal arches; excellent ghost/flare control), Samyang/Rokinon 12mm ƒ2.8 diagonal fisheye (fast, budget-friendly, great for darker sites), Sigma 15mm ƒ2.8 EX diagonal (compact classic that tightens corners by ƒ4–ƒ5.6), and Nikon 16mm ƒ2.8 diagonal (light, reliable used buy). APS-C standouts: Tokina AT-X 10–17mm ƒ3.5–4.5 DX and Pentax DA 10–17mm ƒ3.5–4.5 (versatile diagonal zooms—beloved for aurora and meteors; sharp by ƒ4–ƒ5.6), Samyang 8mm ƒ2.8 UMC Fisheye II (Sony/Fuji APS-C—fast and tiny for handheld aurora), plus Canon/Nikon 8–15s acting as diagonals across much of their range on crop. Micro Four Thirds stars: Olympus M.Zuiko 8mm ƒ1.8 PRO (low-light champ—fast, sealed, impressive coma control) and Panasonic Lumix G 8mm ƒ3.5 (tiny, sharp, value); specialty circulars like Laowa 4mm ƒ2.8 (MFT) deliver true all-sky at speedy apertures for meteor time-lapse. Practical buyer tips: if you want one lens that does both circular all-sky and diagonal arches on full-frame, grab an 8–15 and store two zoom stops (circular/no-vignette and diagonal/edge-fill); if speed + price matter, the Samyang 12/2.8 is the FF value pick; on APS-C the Tokina 10–17 offers unmatched flexibility, while on MFT the Olympus 8/1.8 rules dawn/dusk and aurora—pair any with a quality heater and a rigid adapter where needed. Night-shooting tips: start around ƒ1.8–ƒ3.5, 10–25 s, ISO 3200–6400 (use the NPF rule for pinpoint stars), focus via magnification on a bright star then tape the ring, and stop down 1/3–2/3 stop if corners need discipline; expose for the sky and blend a longer low-ISO foreground later, kill long-exposure NR (stack instead), set WB ~3800–4200 K, and avoid CPLs; for meteors, run long bursts with 1–2 s gaps and stack composites, for star trails use hundreds of 20–30 s subs at ISO 800–1600 and blend, for aurora favor faster lenses and 2–6 s exposures to keep structure, and for city night fisheye, shade the front element to tame sodium/LED ghosts and de-fish lightly for cleaner lines; whether you’re mapping the entire sky in one frame, wrapping galactic arcs over silhouettes, catching Perseids streaks, or bending neon canyons into graphic bowls, the best fisheye night choices—8–15 zooms on full-frame, Tokina/Pentax 10–17 on APS-C, and Olympus/Panasonic 8 mm (plus fast circulars on MFT)—deliver huge sky coverage, workable speed, and projection you can shape in post so your stars stay crisp, your gradients stay clean, and your night images feel vast, luminous, and intentionally bold.